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Having travelled to many parts of the world, rightly or wrongly I tend to judge a country by its food - Mexico wins gold, silver and bronze.

I arrived in Mexico City after very little sleep. Ironically I was actually sat in seat 22a on an AirMexico flight, the same seat and airline I had sat when travelling from Cuba to Mexico last week. Several times I paused and looked over the the opposite row...but of course N wasn't there.

After filling out my 2nd Mexican Visa in 7 days I waited for my dear Rocìo.

Rocìo 

Let me introduce Rocìo: Nine months earlier I was in the magical city of Mysore. As I've written in my previous blog, this journey changed my life dramatically and the district of Gokulam will forever be special to me. Tucked away in 9th main, 12th street or was it 7th main, 3rd street!?!?! (I never did work out the street system) is the vegan cafe Dhãtu's. After an exhausting practice Sandra and I decided to have a mini feast. There we met with some other girls including the stunning Rocìo. Instantly I felt a connection with her. Warm hearted and bright eyed her pixie-like giggle made everything seem fun and lighthearted. All of us girls, being hippie spoke of how we love to travel and that one day if not in Mysore we would all meet up again...this is a phrase too often used when friends traveling from different cultures hope to recreate their time together. In all honesty though, other than a FB friend request this rarely happens. Once we return to our mundane lives we forget the free childlike person we really are.

Over the next few weeks Sandra, Rocìo, Natalia, Seme and I hung out...we shared coconuts together, ate dozens of dosas at Mylari Hotel, saw Star Wars at the cinema and spent my best Christmas together. Ashtanga does bring together the most authentic of friendships from all over the world.

3 months later and on the otherside of the world in the Cayman Islands I was becoming bored with my life. At 1am one morning I sat at my laptop and began to book flights for my Summer travels. I knew that following my visit to Cuba I wouldn't be ready to return to the island so I chose to explore Mexico. My immediate thought, Rocìo!!!! I messaged her instantly as I distinctly recall her pride when describing her country. She assured me that with her as my guide I would see the best Mexico has to offer. I wouldn't follow the Lonely Planet tourist track, she would show me everything; those little cafès, restaurants and museums hidden down the side streets that only the locals are lucky enough to know about.

Rocìo shared my excitement and welcomed me to her home. She would show me as much as she could and promised that I would have the best time in her City.

Rocìo picked me up from Aeropuerto International Benito Juárez. I couldn't believe that I was actually seeing her, this beautiful soul that had been a part of such a special time of my life. The journey to her home in Condesa was chokka with traffic but just as well as this gave us plenty of time to catch up on the revelations of our lives since Mysore: 

▪ Her quitting corporate life to follow her dream teaching Ashtanga, the story of her and her soulmate Nuno and their wedding next year.

▪ Me leaving the UK for the Caribbean, continuing my nutrition studies and the many tales of the past 5 week's adventures.

After dumping my very very heavy luggage we went for a typical Mexican breakfast of huevos rancheros at Peltre in Condesa. We then finished off with a chai in memory of our time in India.

The days following have merged into a conglomerate of the most satisfying, taste triggering, salivating food that Mexico has to offer. I made it clear that I ONLY wanted typical Mexican food. This was a fun little game for Rocìo! She knew the best place for everything, from handmade sweets to vegan treats. I ate tamales, gordita, tortas, tortillas, tostadas, chapulines (salted grasshoppers), mole negro, sope, cajeta, churros, dulce de leche and so much more. I cant recall the names of everything but I tried everything right up until my last 20 minutes in the country.

Here are some of the dishes I ate...

I have to say my favourite meal was chiles en nogada with almond sauce and pomegranate; a traditional meal from the ingredients to the visual representation of the colourful flag.

Prior to Mexico I read 'Eating Animals' by Jonathan Saffron Foer. Before and even more so now I am having very mixed feelings about eating meat. I have always favoured vegetables above anything else. Roasted vegetables with Malden salt and Modena balsamic is the dish of choice for me but I have also been partial to a fresh catch. In Mexico though, eating meat felt different. Meat is a part of Mexico's identity; a country that uses their food to show their history and culture. The people are very proud of their country and this shows with the variety, colours, fragrances etc. Food is everywhere here. It's of the best quality and is made with such love and attention.

One of my most memorable days was spent exploring the city centre, visiting the museum of art,  the cathedral and wondering the backstreets of the local markets. Initially unaware, this is where illegal trade takes place; vendors ready at a seconds notice to pack up their trinkets and sprint down the road before the police catch them. These are the very things these people must do in order to survive. For those who are lucky to have a job, 65 pesos is the daily wage. 65 pesos is the cost of a Starbucks venti latte. I was staying in a very nice area and shown only safe places so I hadn't even realised that Mexico is still a 3rd world country. Rocìo actually didn't tell me until the next day that even she was scared taking me down the back streets. She was so fearful that we might be mugged that she turned her engagement ring around with the diamonds and sapphire on the inside. Was it brave or stupid to go wondering??? Who cares, I got to see a part of Mexico City that the tourists wouldn't.

Later that day we went to Dulceria de Celaya where we turned into characters from Willie Wonker with eyes the size of gobstoppers!!! Rocìo's great grandmother used to come here and it's been a tradition past down through the family. The candies were all handmade which made everything seem that extra bit special. We both spent a mini fortune (by Mexican standards), walked to the Cathedral, I laid my North Face jacket on the floor and we proceeded to eat the biggest cake WITH OUR FINGERS!!! It was heaven!!! It wasn't until after we'd devoured the thing and washed our hands with my bottled mineral water that we realised there were forks in the bag all along!!! Oh well :)

Mexico cathedral 

On Wednesday Rocìo helped me book a tour to the Basilica of Guadelupe and Teotihuacan. I slept the whole 2 hour journey there as I think weeks of flying combined with high altitude was beginning to take its toll on my body. I could feel the swollen lymph nodes in my neck, I was constantly breathless and nauseous with exhaustion. Arriving at the ruins I was gobsmacked. As a child and even now when I watch children's cartoons the Aztec's and mesamoic people scare me. But I was there, in this village, with these remains, with the sacrifice pyramid in front of me. I felt several shivers through my body, like someone walking over my grave. I made friends with another solo traveller, Sheriff from Egypt. Being the only other non-Spanish speaker we decided to climb the tallest pyramid together. For someone who considers themselves quite fit, this was bloody knackering, my lungs just weren't working. I felt like a 70 year old granny with a habit of smoking 40 a day. After a couple of stops we made it! Stunning! There is a legend that apparently when you go to the top of the pyramid you receive the sun's energy and you feel a euphoric power. I don't know if this happened but getting the chance to catch my breath and soak up the view did fill me with appreciation. I then happily skipped down to the bottom.

Teotihuacan

So after my love affair with Mexico I was all set with a return flight to Cayman booked for Saturday morning.

Queue curve ball...

I spoke with N on Wednesday and we admitted that we missed each other. I woke up Friday morning with a ticket to Istanbul. So that's where I am now. I've never done this before but it's like my adventure in continuing and who says it has to end.

This morning's view thanks to jet lag 😍

Through my tummy and eyes this city and the culture has stolen my heart. Thank you Mexico.